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1. Sony Ta F555esx Manual Meat Price

So i got this in the mail yesterday. I bought it off ebay for 199 and had it shipped to me for 90 bucks. It's the same thing as the f700es but it's intended for the 'e' market. I don't know where 'e' is.

But i thought it was pretty unusual, the numbering, since in japan the f700 was the f333esx and the f800es was the f555esx. And i have the f444esx. But here is my problem.

When i press the power button, the light above it turns red. And that's fine, but shouldn't it turn green after a few seconds? Cus it doesn't.

I can use it and listen to it and everything sounds great. But the light stays red. Ok, third lead. I'll look for that. I think i'll be able to spot such a thing. I'm pretty sure i love it though.

Three tape loops a cd in an aux and a phono and tuner in. I had to switch cables on my old akai all the time and it made me crazy having to do so. It always seemed the source i wanted was the one that was unplugged. Never again!! But it's dead silent. Like when nothing is playing and i turn it all the way up there is nothing.

Sony Ta F555esx Manual Meat Price

No hiss or buzz or noise of any sort. The akai i was using was a little hissy, nothing terrible. But the 444 is silent. What is this turnover business about though?

200hz vs 400hz and 3khz vs 6 khz? I don't know. What that's all about. I opened the ta-f444esx today to check for three leads on the light.

I'm assuming that means three wires? There are three wires. And i did see a picture of a ta-f700es online that has a green light. It also says in the manual: 'power/standby indicator immediatly after turning ON the power, the standby indicator lights in red as the built in muting circuit activates. When the amplifier stays in a stable operating condition, the indicator lights in green.

The indicator lights in red when the unit detects shorting of circuit of the speaker outputs or in case of short circuit of the inputs of DC components. In such a case, disconnect the power source and check the connected components and speaker systems' it stays red even when nothing is connected. But the thing that i've read in other places is that i shouldn't even be able to hear anything without the green light. It seems to sound perfect to me.

But that red light. How am i supposed to enjoy my life knowing that the red light means bad? Hi Mark, I am no expert in this model but the very first thing I would do is check either the back label for voltage specs or if the unit is made for international distribution and has an adjustable transformer tap at the rear to make sure it is set for the correct voltage that you are using. Japan uses 100 Vac while USA is 115 Vac.

I had a Teac tape deck repair from the person getting his deck and running it at 117 Vac while set to 100 Vac. This could have been avoided. Often times Sony puts error codes and indications in a unit that are not always known to the customer but only to service people. This red indicator could be a sign of that. Hi Mark, This indicator is just a precursor to a more serious problem perhaps.

I would not waste time measuring the LED as if the thing was defective it would go dark and stay that way. The red indicator lead is obviously energized. I would start by getting a service manual for the thing and then stop all the guessing. There may be a DC offset in the unit after these years and it may be either a failing component or possibly an adjustment.

I would start at Stereomanuals.com and if nothing there maybe there is an original on Ebay. There is no substitution for good technical documentation which will lead you to the problem. Hi Mark, This indicator is just a precursor to a more serious problem perhaps.

I would not waste time measuring the LED as if the thing was defective it would go dark and stay that way. The red indicator lead is obviously energized. I would start by getting a service manual for the thing and then stop all the guessing.

There may be a DC offset in the unit after these years and it may be either a failing component or possibly an adjustment. I would start at Stereomanuals.com and if nothing there maybe there is an original on Ebay. There is no substitution for good technical documentation which will lead you to the problem. If Mark can't check an LED for continuity, a DIY fix is probably not in the cards. Live with it as is or take to a tech. I think an easy way to clarify will be helping Mark take DC measurements. If the DC is not excessive, then the speakers are not at risk and so it must be the indicator circuitry.

Hi Mark, The service manual is all you need and a little understanding of what to look for. Measuring the LED is a waste of time in my opinion but who listens to me as I just started servicing electronics 37 years ago. I also worked at the two Sony factory service places in Illinois for some time. The item you are looking for is the detection circuit which the service manual can direct you to find.

If the Red LED is on there is something going into that detection circuit that it does not like. I would put the meter on DC and check with no music but speakers hooked up if there is any DC on the speakers.

This can usually be a very good first step to see if the amp is doing what it is suppose to or that a little or big something is wrong. Speakers can burn up with a large DC going into them. If you have access to the woofer of the speaker and you turn on the amp you want to see if from the resting point of the woofer if the cone is drawn in or pushed out with no sound. This would need to be a gross DC voltage on the outputs but is also an indication of the DC offset. Sony service as far as I see now is just in it for the money and you will probably not hear from them without having a unit in there.

Ken Bernacky at Stereo Surgeons might be a better choice as long as he has experience with one of these. Otherwise with the help of your father the tracing of the symptom indicator most likely will lead you to the source regardless if it is a false indication or a real one. Just trying to give help. First, a checklist 1. Is the tape monitor engaged? Has the monitor switch become stuck? Poke at it a good deal to see if it's working.

Likewise for the selection switches/knobs and any muting. Is the unit remotely controlled? Check to see if you need to operate the remote for something. Batteries dead?

Is there a battery inside the amp for memory? A bad remote sensor may open and prohibit operations. OUTPUTS-are any of the wires shorting against the chassis? Trim and replace them. Do not place more than one speaker in any single output nor bridge outputs/speakers to multiple outputs. Standard stereo to four speakers cuts power in roughly half algebraically when using the same general impedence (ohms).

Drastically altering this creates stresses on the amp that will harm it in an indeterminate time (damaging or destroying the outputs). The 4-speaker two-channel design is not designed to handle such loads so a circuit, breakers (fuses) and other protection devices will shut the amp down (standby in newer designs) until a proper load is returned.

Multichannel (surround) is a different beast and quad is like two independent stereo or maybe four mono amps but similar to the 2-channel scheme. Multichannel (Dolby, DTS 4.0, 5.1, 6.1-up) tend to involve separate amp circuits dedicated to the various channel functions. A-Front (Stereo) B-Second Pair of Stereo (usually similar or equal to Front in power, non-surround mode) C-Center (a specially summed Front output made to emphasize left to right spatial content such as speech) D-Rear Surround, a semi-stereo, limited frequency range two speaker output that adds rear and spatial imaging to the soundstage to give the impression of multidimensional space. The average output to the rears is 10 watts and a lot of folks slag those speakers using them for standard amps! This wattage was determined by years of acoustical studies as adequite to convey this in an average small setup. Of course if you have the outputs you can amplify them any way you want to. E-Subwoofer, a specifically equalized and restricted low frequency bandwidth channel that can be amped on board or sent as a separate output to a powered subwoofer amp/self-contained amplified subwoofer.

A Center output may also be an option on many processor units. Sony, and other manufacturers who design similarly featured amps recommend AGAINST operating both stereo pairs and Dolby type outputs at the same time AS AMP DAMAGE WILL OCCUR. IMPORTANT AS WELL: devices with defective outputs will present potential dangerous operation to an amp and cause shutdown. Remove all devices and switch a known good unit in and out of the inputs, making certain input matches input and not output etc AVOIDING THE PHONOGRAPH INPUT (line inputs may damage the phono section)! Does anything SMELL FUNNY?

Imporant last DOOFUS CHECK: ) Are the supposed to be some U shaped jumpers in the back that you pull to use it as a STRAIGHT AMPLIFIER? IF YOU PLUG THE LINE DEVICE IN THE BOTTOM AND GET SOUND.BINGO! If you can't find those jumper plug an ordinary single RCA stereo cable in LEFT PLUGS to the top jacks and RIGHT PLUGS to the bottom jacks. Barring internal blown fuses or bad parts, the AMP SHOULD NOW OPERATE CORRECTLY. Somebody has jumpers, we can solve that. (There may also be a switch to separate the amp and preamp, switch it to normal/integrated amp operation and use the amp) OH.Don't forget to select only the pair you are actually using??? Often A+B for one only equals ZIP If this does not work, unplug the unit and all devices and inspect form bad fuses or burnt/damaged parts.whipslap.Do not work inside an electronic device under power without specific knowledge of safe procedures!.shoot.

In more modern designs there are multiple fuses in different locations, often 'hidden'. The Power Supply fuse is now located on the PS board vs. The back panel in a capsule as are the amp fuses. There may also be a fuse at the front near the power/standby control(s). If the PS fuse is bad the unit won't power AT ALL and possibly the standby light won't change but probably won't light either.

In a 2-channel unit with 'regular' output pairs ('transistors and diodes' as we would call them whether or not that's it) one bad channel does not normally shut the amp down completely, however drastic differences in operation with good outputs WILL in order to preserve the amp. Some designs involve multiple pairs per channel and can be designed to sacrifice the first pair or two to preserve others and still save the amp. I have such an amp and upon failure the relay for than channel began clicking to tell me it had died.

Others use what is called and inline 'Hybrid' IC-based amp package ('chip amp', Darlington) which is attached to a heat sink with a paste just like a computer CPU (many amp transistors are as well these days due to the power and heat dissipation needed but Hybrids are much bigger). Some of the more common hybrids are were made by Sanyo and many carry an 'STK.) designation.

Many are also OBSOLETED and not available from the OEM manufacturer any longer so stocks of new existing old stock (or NOS) will have to be rounded up, often a difficult task and perhaps expensive. Workarounds maybe exist in the form of substitutes (the OEM maker may have replaced it with a newer version or a different one worked in much like tube subs). In the cases of some specific makes such as CR-series Yamahas the hybrids were specific for both the preamp and amp circuits and made by/for Yamaha and today only replaced with used, working exact Yamaha parts. By the way, fuses are often upside down on small boards over other parts or next to RELAYS. Relays are related to protection in that they are pulled open in protection mode.

A blown fuse means they won't close and allow the circuit to work. In some units the entire amp will be shut down while in others only the affected channel is silent.

Failure of one Hybrid often puts the unit in Protection and in a 2-channel unit certainly that would be the case. Pull the fuses one by one and inspect them visually and with the lowest setting for resistance to determine an open fuses not apparent otherwise. Replace with the exact amperage (A=1.000 mA hence 250mA is 250 milliamps etc and the voltage should always be at least line voltage (that which comes from the wall jack) so if it's higher than 125V it's good in the US and don't worry that it says 250V as it will handle up to that without blowing and that doesn't need to be exact just enough). Look for burnt parts as well. If you can take the bottom panel off do so and note an damage (photograph it if you can, it helps to locate the damage from the top of the board). If you have good fuses and no burns/damage/cracks you can see in the board or lifted traces (circuit lines) on any board (and it don't STINK) try it, lid off, hands out of it and note what happens.

Did you lose another fuse, maybe blew like a flashbulb, see a spark/arc? Did you pinpoint which fuse blew or relay didn't work? Can you at least temporarily operate the controls, switch the function of change to a new function before the unit shuts down completely? Does it work without speakers and outside devices? Does it work with some of all speakers not switched in? If none of these checks restore the green light you should call a local service person that actually fixes stereo gear and is reputable. It's not made of plutonium, diagnosing it won't need elfin magic but likewise it might not need a trip to some servicecenter on Planet Whizbang to diagnose.

If it really needs Dr. Kildare then at least you'll know. Sam Palerno and a few others here are extremely capable and qualified (Sam is a radio engineer for that matter) at helping you and that is the biggest reason they joined this group. Let them guide you along.it will help you a lot and it's not the nail-biting thing it seems. Thanks for asking and remember. THERE ARE NO STUPID QUESTIONS!

THERE ARE ONLY REALLY DUMB THINGS THAT HAPPEN IF YOU DON'T ASK.fit. Warped Bezel aka Steven. That was great.

So the thing is, it works. I've been using it since i got it. It sounds great. Best thing i've ever heard. I only just saw a picture of one on the internet recently that had a green light and so it got me to wondering why my light stays red.

I'm only using two speakers hooked up in a regular way. All of the jacks on the back, inputs/outputs are empty. Meaning that there are none of those jumpers or anything like that.

I have some components hooked up to it. But even with no speakers or components the light stays red. There is an adaptor/normal switch that is set to normal and those jacks are empty as well. But like i say, it works fine. I'm listening to a carpenters tape right now.

The sha la la la las and the lo lo lo lo los and everything. It's just that friggen fraggen light that won't turn green. I was gonna get my dad to help me with it today but he's been out all day with my mom and aunt.

So i've been trying to pull some pinch rollers from a rusty headed tapedeck i have. But this stop ring is determined to make me lose it. How on earth do you remove a stop ring anyway.

Smashing everything and screaming? I'll just have to live with this red light for another day i spose.

No blowing fuses. Everything seems to be fine except for that light.

No humming or crackles or anything suspiscious. Just a red light that won't turn green. So i've been reading and reading.

This and that, here and there. And it seems that the first thing that you do before you use any vintage amp is test the dc offset. So, with my little vom in hand, set to 200m on the dc voltage dial. I turned on the amp, disconnected the speakers, selected an unused input, turned the volume all the way down and then came to read some more for a while. The service manual suggests 10 minutes. So on the left i got a reading of around 70, and on the right i got a reading of 32.

Now i've read that these readings are not dangerous but that they should be remedied. So i've read that if i were to adjust the dc offset, i should first check and adjust the dc bias. And then check the dc offset again. And then adjust the dc offset. And then check the dc bias again. And so on and so forth until i get as close to 0 for the offset and 15mv for the bias. According to the service manual.

The adjustment pots are clearly labeled as well as the test points for the dc bias. Do i sound up for this or am i going to kill my damn self? Hi Mark, You can do the job so long as you don't start by turning the pots full scale in each direction like I have seen some guys do.

Get set up and turn things slowly and a little at a time and detect the difference- with a little patience the offset can be reduced down to almost nothing- 15mV is pretty close already. The bias has to be set correctly probably measured across a emitter resistor and this voltage is setting the current through the solid state device which in amplifier terminology is determining the placement on the load line. The bias pot is one that you would not want to move around a lot if not needed. This bias setting might lead you to the problem that is in there or the problem may just be an adjustment- you are going slowly and approaching the repair in the right way. Oh the killing self- Don't lean on anything that has terminals and most Techs I know that are new at it take their watch off as those are good conductors for the Large Electrolytics in the power supply.

Once you know what is dangerous, you can then relax a bit. Thanks for the encouragement. I measured the dc bias a few minutes ago.

I was sure i was gonna die, friday the 13th and playing with electricity? I was sure i was just asking for it. But i'm alive and i have some more measurements. Offset is pretty much the same r: 78 l: 30ish and the bias r: 26.6 l: 25.2 all the adjustment pots are clearly marked, with bias clearly written next to the bias ones as well as the bias testpoints being clearly marked. And the offset pots are clear too with the help of the service manual. I'm terrified to adjust them though.

Have the same amp the same problem. Couldn't figure out until read about a similar problem for ta-f555 and solution. Basically there is a capacitor-resistor link which delays turning the speaker relays on. When the capaciotr fails you'll get no sound and red light. When the cap is near failing you'll get a delayed switch on like 15 sec in my case and red light. The owner of the 555 suggested to change a couple of failed capacitors that go to protect IC.

I used both f444 and f555 chematics to find analogical capacitors in 444. Gonna purchase the parts and replace them. Hopefully my guess is right. Btw all shecmatics could be easily found online. Sorry for manyy typing errors. Hi Mark, Electrolytic capacitors- especially those that are old as in past 7 years are all due to be changed out. If you have a problem in a certain section of the device and you see Electrolytic capacitors, even with little knowledge in electronics- a good guess is to replace those parts and see what happens.

A good percentage of the time these are the culprits. If you are looking at Polystyrene, Polyester, Mylar or caps of this type, failure does happen but much more rarely.

If I see 10 V Electrolytic capacitors no matter how old they are they have to go put 16V ones in. 10 V caps I have seen through the years were drop outs from the manufacture of 16 Vdc caps thus they have been already determined to be defective.

Hi, I have a new TA-F444ESX too, and am confronted with the red-light problem. I tried it with nothing connected, still a red light.

Looked at caps, no visible signs of bulging. I calibrated the DC offset and DC bias to almost right on the mark. The amp is set for 120, as it should be. The amp sounds great, and has a ton of power, has been operating without much hitch since I got it, but I have no clue why the red light stays on. I honestly haven't any idea why the red light would remain on, does anyone have any clue would it could be? Id be more than willing to provide any other additional specs or ratings, ill try anything but I want to badly fix this amp. Thanks in advance!

I took mine to the pros to get fixed. I can't really read on the work order what was done. From what i can make out, they changed a lamp, one 4.7 uf cap, one 47 uf cap, and um. 5h imaaspials? Plus they cleaned the balance control and did a. It says that the weak caps were in the relay drive circuit. But i've also experienced the loss of the left channel at times.

When i turn the speakers off and then back on the left channel is weak until i turn it up a bit. And when i record from phono it will do the same thing sometimes. It's just dirty switches i think.

The meat and potatoes part of the switches are difficult to reach though as they are on a board in the very back of the unit and to properly reach them you have to take the back panel off, which i have yet to do. But those problems seem to have dissapeared for the last few months at least. Such a great piece though. I love having 3 tape loops.

First step is to clean all control and switches on front and back panels. If crackling persists, suspect the main filter caps. Sony's from back then tended to run the main caps hard so it is not uncommon to see them with bulging or with sagging tops. Also inspect for leaks at the vent hole on the bottom of the cap. Gently tap the top of the cap with a non-conductive tool and if the distortion responds, you have your answer. The other way to do it is to inject a sine wave and use a scope to see where the signal distorts.

But i've also experienced the loss of the left channel at times. When i turn the speakers off and then back on the left channel is weak until i turn it up a bit. Hi, your speaker relais' contacts are oxydized, corroded and or dusty. The speaker relais are the about half-matchbox-sized black containers at the back of the unit near the speaker terminal. They click when the respective speaker they connect to is selected and/ or the unit s turned on or off. They can be opened (CAREFULLY) and you can clean the contacts with contact cleaner (the one I have is only available in Germany so I wouldn't know which one to buy where you're from). Use a small paper towel and spray the contacts with the cleaner, LIGHTLY move the paper towel up and down to clean the contacts.

In case you damage the relais in the process, learn how to solder, get a replacement and solder it on. Not really a big deal.

Rare upgraded version of the bestseller, designed by Takashi Kanai. Although not yet resting on a Gibraltar base, the F555ESII gained power, weight and a fully copper plated chassis, although some batches seem not to have had that: partly the Europe and the ' exports. The internal layout, however, would be carried onto all the later 555ES versions: TA-F555ESX, TA-F555ESXII, TA-F555ESR, TA-F555ESL, TA-F555ESA and the ultimate. Kept from the original was ACT (Audio Current Transfer) which uses current amplification to transfer signals from preamp to power amp stage and achieve 120 dB of dynamic range and outstanding levels of stereo separation.

Kept as well was the total value of smoothing caps but spread over four Great Supply 10,000µF /85 V instead of two For Audio 22,000µF /63 V in the original. The available loading was somewhat dropped: speakers A or speakers B but not both at the same time. Inside, the TA-F555ESII really is a smaller and this revised version garnered a Stereo Sound ' Best Product' award, following in that -surprise- the original F777ES! However, the auxiliary input was replaced by two audio/video inputs plus a loop/monitor and the phono MM pF setting was scrapped - sign'o'the times. Wood sideburns were planned, shown, advertised but generally not actually made available - like the. Despite much better sonics than the original, the F555ESII didn't sell nearly as well as the original. But Sony made up up for that with the following F555ES 'versions' which all sold like pancakes, croissants and bagels like pancakes, croissants and bagels do any day of the week.

Sony TA-F555ESII specifications Title Value RMS Power: 2x 120W (8 Ohm, 20 Hz.20 Khz, continuous) 2x 150W (6 Ohm, 20 Hz.20 Khz, continuous) 2x 180W (4 Ohm, 20 Hz.20 Khz, continuous) THD / IMD: 0,004% (20 Hz.20 Khz, 8 Ohm, rated output) 0,001% (20 Hz.20 Khz, 4 Ohm, rated output) Power bandwidth: 10 Hz.100 Khz (50W, 8 Ohm, 0,02% THD) 5 Hz.80 Khz (50W, 4 Ohm, 0,02% THD) Slew rate: 100 V /µsec. (?) 250 V /µsec (IHF) (?) Damping factor: 125 (1 Khz / 8 Ohm) Residual noise: 28µV (A-weighted, 8 Ohm) (?) Dynamic headroom: 1,8 dB (4 or 8 Ohm, IHF-1978) (?) Dynamic range: 120 dB (?) Frequency response: 2 Hz.200 Khz (± 3 dB) (?) RIAA curve: ± 0,2 dB Channel separation: 90 dB (?) 85 dB (MM) (?) 90 dB (MC) (?) MM Phono input: 2,5 mV / 50 kOhm MM settings: 100pF or 330pF MC Phono input: 0,17 mV / 100 Ohm ort 40 Ohm setting Line inputs: Tuner, tape, CD (150 mV / 50 kOhm) A/V inputs:? S/N ratio: 102 dB (IHF-A) 97 dB (New IHF) MM Phono S/N ratio: 83 dB (@ 2,5 mV input, IHF-A) 87 dB (New IHF) MC Phono S/N ratio: 73 dB (@ 0,125 mV input, IHF-A) 70 dB (New IHF) Maximum input capability: 150 mV (MM) (?) 8,5 mV (MC) (?) Tone controls: ± 8 dB at 60 Hz ± 8 dB at 25 Khz Bass boost: + 4db at 50 Hz Subsonic: 6dB/oct.

Below 15 Hz Speaker impedance: 6.16 Ohm PC: 240W Dimensions: 43 x 13,5 x 42,5 cm Weight: 15,1 kg List price: 128,000 ¥.